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The Complete Guide to Diamond Cuts

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by Suzanne Sachs  5 min read

Art deco Diamond Rings

THE BASICS --

Two essential elements of engagement rings are the wonderful artistry of the past master cutters, and the glorious diamond cuts they used for their one of a kind a timeless works of arts. Beautiful diamond cuts, used as center diamonds, include emerald cut, mine cut, old European cut, and in some instances rose cut diamonds. These diamond cuts are, as we love to say, "sweet." They have less dispersion and brilliance, yet that's what makes them so special. They truly capture that time in history when things were simpler. Now with a resurgence of sustainable jewelry, vintage cuts have come back into prominence and are in high demand. Here is a list and description of our collection ethical and sustainable diamond cuts.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW--

 

• Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut is a step or trap cut with rectangular facets that emphasize depth and draw the eye into the stoneWhile the cut has an overall square shape, similar to the princess cut, its corners are heavily cropped to create a nearly octagonal shape.

 

asscher-cut-diamond

 

• Emerald Cut

The emerald cut diamond is a rectangular cut diamond with 49 facetsslightly cropped corners, and an internal step appearance.  The emerald cut is a step cut diamond with linear facets and parallel lines which adds a beautiful elegance drawing one's eye into the heart of the diamond

emerald-cut-diamond

 

• Old Mine Cut

Mine cut diamonds, or old mine cut diamonds, were the first antique cut diamond. They are the earliest form of the modern brilliant cut and date back to the early 1800's. Mine cut diamonds were shaped into a large and high crown, with a round to rectangular girdle, a deep pavilion, and a large faceted culet giving a less stated look. Diamond cutters did not have the knowledge, or available machinery, to produce these so they were cut by hand. 

 

 

Mine-Cut-Diamond

 

• Old European Cut

Old European cut diamonds or European cut diamondswere discovered after the mine cut diamond in the mid 1800's. They have a small table, a large culet, large crown, heavy depth, and a circular girdle also giving a less stated look.

 

Old-European-cut-diamond

 

• Oval Cut

An Oval cut diamond encompasses a longer shape, has rounded corners, and the faceting of the round brilliant cut diamond. This shape diamond elongates that traditional round shape, but retains the rounded edge for greater durability rather than shapes that have sharper corners. The proportions of an oval cut diamond can vary widely and traditionally has a length to width ratio of 1.30 to 1.49 millimeters.

 

 

oval-cut-diamond-engagement-ring

 

• Marquise Diamond

The marquise diamond cut is an elongated, tapered oval with sharp tips. While the ideal length to width ratio is generally considered between 1.5 to 1.75- 2.15, this shape can be either very narrow or very thick and the overall dimensions are largely a matter of personal preference. Marquise diamonds are variations on the round brilliant cut and have 58 total facets to maximize sparkle.

 

marquise-diamond-ring

 

• Pear Shaped Diamond

A pear-shaped diamond also encompasses a longer shape and is a combination of a round brilliant cut with the tapered marquise. Pear shapes are roundish at one end and tapers to a point at the other end, with a total of 58 facets for the ultimate brilliance and dispersion. Also called the pear shape, teardrop, or tear-shaped cut.

 

pear-shaped-diamond-ring

 

• Princess Cut Diamond

The princess cut diamond is known as the square modified brilliant cut and is a relatively new diamond shape. The princess was first created in the 1960s, and further modified to its current design in 1980's. The corners of the princess cut are sharp and to a point, and the sides are beveled with elegant chevrons. This creates an X shape when the stone is viewed from above, and it has high brilliance and dispersion within its depth. 

 

princess-cut-diamond-ring

 

Cushion Cut Diamond

Antique cushion cut diamonds were discovered during the mid 1800's and are known as pillow cut diamonds. Cushion cut diamonds have rounded corners and larger pavilion facets to give a less stated look. Antique cushion cut diamonds were popular during the Art Deco era.

 

cushion-cut-diamond-ring

 

•  French Cut Diamond

A favorite of many antique jewelry enthusiasts throughout the world are French cut diamonds. French cut diamonds were discovered in Europe during the 17th century. They are square in shape, and posses a high crown with a small table. French cut diamonds come with 18 to 24 facets. Also very popular during the Art Deco and Mid century eras.

 

French-cut-diamond-ring

 

• Radiant Cut Diamond

The radiant cut diamond is a fusion of the rectangular emerald cut and the brilliant cut of round diamonds. The radiant cut diamond features 70 facets and has either a squarish or rectangular shape, depending on the exact proportions. The sides are straight, and the corners are slightly beveled to strengthen the stone and protect its integrity.

 

radiant-cut-diamond-ring

 

• Rose Cut Diamond

Rose cut diamonds were discovered during the 16th century and come in either round or pear shape. Rose cut diamonds are said to look like a blooming flower and have a flat bottom and a faceted dome crown. Rose cut diamond accents were very popular during the Victorian era.

 

Vintage-Ruby-Engagement-Ring

 

• Single Cut Diamond

The single cut diamond was a very important accent diamond to rings throughout history. They are still important to the watch industry today. Single cut diamonds are round in shape with less than atypical 58 facets. Single cut also have that less stated look.

 

Vintage-Engagement-Rings

 

•  Modern Brilliant Cut

When master diamond cutters discovered new machinery and technology, the modern brilliant cut was discovered. With more brilliance and dispersion, and possessing 58 facets, they are the mainstay of the diamond industry to this day. Round brilliant cut diamonds may have thin to thick girdles with none to small culet. During the 1970's and 1980's large tables were popular, yet today small tables are prevalent and popular.

 

Diamond-engagement-Ring

Antique Rings For Everyone

No matter which era is your favorite, these time-honored diamond shapes have a rich history and individualized character and will continue to have a timeless beauty and elegant appeal that is part of a legacy to pass on to future generations.

Find The Perfect Engagement Ring

Antique diamond cuts are prized not only for their beauty but also for their exquisite attention to detailing and faceting. If you’re looking for a ring with a sense of glamour, sophistication and vintage charm, explore our collection of vintage engagement rings today.  

Suzanne Sachs

Suzanne has always believed vintage rings can change lives. She's been in the jewelry industry for over 35 years, working with vintage jewelers, diamond dealers, diamond cutters, and gemologists. Suzanne started Artdecodiamonds in 2000 and understood the demand for vintage rings throughout the world. Suzanne ultimately started VintageDiamondRing.com in 2014, and understands each vintage ring is a reflection of you – your history, your relationships, your style, your elegance and is honored to have the opportunity to help you showcase your flair in a unique and exquisite way.

 

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vintage-engagement-rings

 

 


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