Are Synthetic Rubies in Antique Rings Real?

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by Suzanne Sachs — 5 min read

Does adding a synthetic ruby to an antique ring damage the credibility and history of the piece? What if you discover that an antique ring you love actually has a synthetic ruby instead of a natural gemstone? Is it still an antique? Understanding synthetic rubies and how they have been used in antique rings can help you better understand the history of antique jewelry and why these stones may be original to the piece. 

About Synthetic Rubies

The word “synthetic” can be misleading, especially when it comes to gemstones. It is easy to assume that a synthetic ruby is somehow a fake ruby, but that isn’t the case. Natural and synthetic rubies are both forms of corundum. They share the same basic chemical composition and crystal structure, along with many of the same physical and optical properties. Both also rate 9 on the Mohs hardness scale.

The difference is how they were formed. Natural rubies developed within the earth, while synthetic rubies were created under controlled laboratory conditions. Imitation rubies are something entirely different. Glass and other materials can be made to resemble the rich red color of ruby, but they do not share the same chemical and physical properties. An imitation may look like a ruby, but it is not actually a ruby. This distinction becomes especially important with antique jewelry. Finding a synthetic ruby in an antique ruby ring does not automatically mean the ring is a reproduction or that the gemstone was recently added.

Benefits

One of the advantages of synthetic rubies is their ability to offer the rich red color associated with ruby at a more accessible price. Fine natural rubies can be rare and expensive, particularly when they have desirable color and clarity. Synthetic rubies can also offer greater consistency. Because they are grown under controlled conditions, jewelers can find stones with more uniform color, clarity, and size. This can be especially useful when several matching rubies are needed as accents within the same design.

Synthetic rubies were also used in Art Deco ruby engagement rings, where their vibrant red color complemented geometric designs and contrasting diamond accents. There is also less direct environmental disruption involved because synthetic rubies do not need to be mined from the earth, although their production still requires resources and energy. While some collectors will always prefer the individuality and rarity of a natural ruby, synthetic rubies offer their own combination of beauty, durability, and consistency.

Value

When considered strictly as gemstones, synthetic rubies are generally less valuable than comparable natural rubies. But an antique ring is more than the value of its center stone or gemstone accents.

The age of the ring, rarity of the design, quality of the craftsmanship, precious metals, accompanying diamonds, condition, and whether the setting is original can all play a role in determining its value. If a synthetic ruby was originally used when the ring was made, it also becomes part of the history of that piece. For that reason, discovering a synthetic ruby does not automatically make an antique ring undesirable or significantly less important. The ring should be evaluated as a complete piece of jewelry rather than judged by the origin of one gemstone alone.

Using Synthetic Rubies in Antique Rings

What many buyers don’t realize is just how long synthetic rubies have been around. By the beginning of the 20th century, advances in gemstone-growing techniques made commercial production of synthetic rubies possible. That means some synthetic rubies found in antique jewelry today can be more than 100 years old themselves.

For jewelers of the period, this was new technology. Synthetic rubies offered vivid red color and greater consistency in stones that could be incorporated into increasingly elaborate jewelry designs. They were particularly well suited to the bold use of color seen during the Art Deco period. Rubies and other colored gemstones were often contrasted with diamonds and white metals to create dramatic geometric designs. As a result, synthetic rubies can sometimes be found in authentic Art Deco engagement rings and other jewelry from the period.

A synthetic ruby found in an antique ring may also be a later replacement. Rings that have survived for 100 years or more have often been worn, repaired, resized, or restored. If an original ruby was lost or damaged, finding a natural ruby with exactly the right dimensions and color could be difficult or expensive. A synthetic ruby may have been chosen instead.

Replacing a gemstone does not erase the history of an antique setting. It simply becomes another part of the ring’s story. When possible, however, whether a stone is original or a later replacement should be considered when evaluating the piece. While the word “synthetic” may initially cause concern, these stones have their own fascinating place in jewelry history. Understanding when and why synthetic rubies were used can make an antique ring even more interesting, particularly when the stone is original to the period. Discover vintage ruby rings where beautiful gemstones, period craftsmanship, and history come together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are synthetic rubies real rubies?
Yes. Synthetic rubies have the same basic chemical composition and crystal structure as natural rubies. The difference is that they are created in a laboratory instead of forming naturally within the earth. They are different from imitation rubies made from glass or other materials.

Were synthetic rubies used in vintage jewelry?
Yes. Synthetic rubies began appearing in jewelry in the early 20th century as commercial production became possible. Some synthetic rubies found in antique jewelry today may therefore be original to the piece.

Does a synthetic ruby mean an antique ring isn't authentic?
No. A synthetic ruby can be completely consistent with an authentic antique ring, particularly if the stone was part of the original design. A synthetic ruby may also have been added later to replace a lost or damaged stone. Neither situation automatically makes the antique setting a modern reproduction.

Can a synthetic ruby itself be antique?
Yes. Because synthetic rubies have been commercially produced since the early 20th century, some examples are now more than 100 years old. An early synthetic ruby that was originally set into a period ring can be part of the ring’s antique history.

Suzanne Sachs

Suzanne has been in the jewelry industry for over 40 years, working with vintage jewelers, diamond dealers, diamond cutters, and gemologists. Suzanne started Artdecodiamonds in 2000 and understood the demand for vintage rings throughout the world. She ultimately started VintageDiamondRing.com in 2014, and understands each vintage ring is a reflection of you — your history, your relationships, your style, your elegance and is honored to have the opportunity to help you showcase your flair in a unique and exquisite way.